If you are a sushi lover, then you are already familiar with caviar sushi. The colorful and fun fish roe that is often used to garnish the delicious Japanese rolls comes from a variety of fish. However, the most well-known and, might we say, most appreciated, is salmon roe, called ikura. Oftentimes referred to as caviar sushi, ikura is a tasteful experience, however it is not real caviar.
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What is the difference between real caviar and sushi “caviar”?
The first and main difference comes from the fish species. Caviar is the designated term for cured sturgeon roe. This means that the term caviar can only be attributed to the eggs of sturgeon. There are 27 species of sturgeon, all of which can provide roe for caviar. However, the most prized varieties are Beluga, Ossetra and Sevruga.
Second, curing. Even though “caviar” used for sushi is often cured with salt, the authentic caviar curing methods apply only to sturgeon roe. Moreover, sturgeon roe often goes through an aging process, in order to acquire a more complex taste and texture.
Last but not least, price and availability. These two factors are intertwined: caviar is expensive because it is not that easy to come by. Although wild sturgeon exploitation is prohibited in most regions of the world, caviar farming (where most caviar comes from nowadays) is not an easy business. The sturgeon need adequate conditions, patience and care to mature well and provide eggs. Fish roe commonly used for sushi “caviar” comes from eggs that are consistently farmed throughout the world, and the offer always meets the demand. It is true that salmon is a special case of its own, due to their complicated mating season, but capelin and flying fish roe are easily acquired.
What is ikura?
Ikura is the Japanese name for salmon roe. The name is now internationally used, although salmon is not native to Japanese waters. Moreover, salmon was introduced in Japan somewhere around 1980, via Norwegian fish distributors. The story of the name doesn’t stop here, however. It is believed that ikura actually stems from the Russian word ikra, which translates to fish roe.
Salmon roe is easily recognizable: it consists of medium sized fish pearls that are orange, plump and translucent. The skin of the egg is firm, and the shape is perfectly spherical. Unfortunately, fresh ikura is challenging to find and most sushi restaurants use frozen stock which is thawed right before serving. The reason for this is that salmon roe, more so than other types of fish roe, degrades fast. This does not mean that the roe becomes instantly perishable, but more that it loses from its original texture with air exposure. The eggshells lose firmness and the core becomes sticky and runny. This is why fresh ikura is, more often than not, hard to find.
Moreover, thawed ikura is also prone to fast degradation, which is why, if you plan on making caviar sushi at home, make sure to serve it as soon as the eggs have been thawed.
How is salmon roe made?
The process of turning salmon roe into ikura bears many similarities to caviar making. This is partly due to the fact that ikura is a relatively new type of product. Keep in mind that Japanese sushi chefs have started experimenting with salmon roe for only just about a decade. The salmon roe is collected after mating season via mild anesthesia and gentle “milking” of the eggs. This is a non-invasive way of handling fish in order to extract the eggs. It is often used with sturgeon as well.
Salmon roe is harvested from both wild and farmed salmon, and the taste of the eggs does not differ greatly. This is good news, as most of the ikura brought to the market comes from salmon farms. Also, this ensures a nice, consistent flow of product-to-market all year round.
It is important, however, for harvesters to know the right moment to collect the eggs. If left too long, the eggshells thicken and become too hard, which makes for an unpleasant tasting experience. Wild salmon roe is usually harvested during fall, when the eggs have reached peak size and have the softest consistency. In salmon farms, harvesting for roe is adapted to specific mating conditions and timeframes.
Salmon produce eggs in small pouches called sujikos, that are round, compact and orange in color. The aspect is pretty unique, as, with a more invasive method of roe harvesting, the pouch is extracted entirely from the fish and looks much like an orange fruit.
The salmon roe needs to be carefully taken out of the sujiko, so as to not break it. This would lead to a full spill of the eggs, and a good part might be compromised. The best way to do it is to warm the sujiko and soak it in salted water, of about 3% salt content. The pouch will then open easily. The water contents of the sujiko must be first drained. The eggs are then taken out from the sujiko and thoroughly cleaned, with great care, not to break any of their shells. The cleaning process is repeated several times, until the roe looks clean and free of any membrane.
Next, the eggs are well dried and cured in a light brine that enhances the taste and texture of the fish roe. The brine usually contains one part of soy sauce and one part of sake, as well. Packaging depends on each manufacturer, so it can come in tins, jars and even hard plastic wrapping. Packaging is not as rigorous as with genuine caviar, that only comes in tins. The one exception is made for pasteurized caviar, which comes in glass jars.
What does ikura taste like?
Ikura is a culinary experience of its own, although it is often served with sushi. The fish pearls come in a convenient size, not too small and grainy, yet not too big to become uneasy upon chewing. The eggshell has moderate resistance, which means they will pop in your mouth, releasing a flavorful, creamy zest.
In terms of taste, salmon roe is definitely an umami dish, given its salty, meaty flavor. This is also a reason why many caviar lovers will not have ikura on their rolls. The taste is more distinct than with other types of fish roe used in combination with sushi. However, ikura is mostly used in sushi making, where other varieties of sushi “caviar”, like masago or tobiko, can be paired with other dishes as well.
If you want to experiment with salmon fish roe but cannot make sushi at home, try pairing it with fried eggs or antipasti. Eggs compliment its umami flavor very well.
How is salmon roe used for sushi
Ikura is usually used with a special type of sushi called gunkan maki. This is a special role, consisting in a strip of nori, which is simple seaweed, that is wrapped around the rice, in the shape of a small cake. The rice is then topped with ikura, giving it a really nice look on any sushi plate. This is the best way to have ikura on sushi, as the nori strip holds the egg pearls together, which also makes it easier to eat.
There are certain types of sushi rolls that simply don’t work with ikura. The reason is simply gravity! For instance, nigiri sushi, which consists of a slice of sushi fish of choice on top of a narrow bed of rice, cannot withhold the slippery ikura on top. They will instantly roll over.
Another way of integrating ikura in sushi is by means of the delicious and savory hand roll. This type of rolls usually come in the shape of cones. A wide strip of nori is swirled up, then filled with rice, avocado and/or salmon tartar, and topped with a sprinkle of ikura. This is also a convenient way to enjoy ikura on sushi, because the cone allows for better handling of the contents and the fish roe won’t spill.
If the salmon roe is fresh, sushi chefs will usually soak the fish eggs in soy sauce and sake, which is Japanese wine made from rice. This way, the strong fish aroma becomes slightly faded, and the texture of the roe becomes smoother. Another purpose for curing salmon roe this way is that the soy sauce and sake plump up the fish pearls, making them look juicier, and brighten their original color, which is normally not so intense. This way, the experience becomes more appealing to the customer.
“Caviar” sushi can be used as the finishing touch, but other elements can also be added, to make the rolls even more enticing. Edible flowers, quail eggs, cucumber and mango slices pair well with ikura as sushi embellishments, mostly because they can tone down the deep umami taste of the salmon roe. This way, the flavors of the sushi are not compromised, and you can enjoy a well-rounded taste of the dish.
How to properly eat ikura sushi?
Sushi that has ikura can be served much like any other type of roll, but keep in mind that the salmon roe is already pretty salty, since the eggs have been submerged in soy sauce. Sushi experts recommend not to dip the ikura rolls in soy sauce, but if you tolerate well an extra amount of salt, and enjoy it, simply go for it. The salmon roe should not normally be disruptively salty, so it can take on a little bit more without ruining the taste of the sushi. For better control, avoid dipping the roll and try pouring a drop or two, directly from the soy dispenser, on top of the ikura.
To enhance the complex flavors of the salmon roe, we suggest you also try a pinch of wasabi, which is an intense, spicy horseradish paste. Make sure you don’t put too much, as it will overpower the taste of the sushi entirely and it might also be unpleasant for you. In the wrong amounts, wasabi can be very, very hot.
Last but not least, if you enjoy dipping the roll in soy sauce, the best practice for this is to dip the fleshy side and avoid soaking in the rice in the salty sauce. This is because rice is very permeable and will absorb too much soy sauce, making the roll extra salty. Traditionally, sushi is not served with chopsticks, so you should simply grab the roll between your fingers and swiftly dip it in the soy sauce. If there is some ikura left on the plate (the ones that escaped from the rolls), you can still enjoy it on a lettuce leaf or with a cracker topped with butter. Bon appetit!
Maybe you would like to know—> How to choose food and drink for great caviar pairings.